Pinblock fitting to plate flange is here:
https://www.yunspianoservice.com/work/pinblock-for-steinway-l

This is when the 5 layer pinblock is glued up and fitted to the plate flange. 

Use a transfer punch to mark tuning pins and webbing screws. Drill webbing screw pilot (body) holes through plate for accuracy. Be careful not to drill too deep, or it will be easily stripped when turning screws in.  

Set up drill press. That hose blows air out to cool down drill bit. Drilling into laminated maple can create a lot of heat. Tuning pins are tilled 5 to 7 degrees towards the front of piano, so the drill press is tilted this way, as well. When drilling for webbing screw holes, be cautious that the bit is in the center of pilot hole. Also till drill press back to 90 degrees before drilling any screws holes.

The screws can be in different sizes. Pay attention to use the right drill bit for each screw size. After all the drilling, check if every hole is opened up. Clean drill bits thoroughly for the next person or use.

We use a router to cut from bottom of pinblock. Mr. David Betts called this thing widow maker. I do express my deep gratitude to Mr. Router before operating him. Hold router firmly with two hands , turn it on by thumb while holding handles tightly, at bass of piano, let the metal plate rise against stretcher straight up, cut upwards till baring hits the bottom of stretcher. Move slowly to treble. When the right side handle hits treble end of piano, move router straight down, turn it off with thumb while holding handles tightly. Hold it till the blade stops spinning completely. Use a sawzall to cut two end of pinblock, 3" from the case.

Remove main part of pinblock with a heavy hammer. Drill out dowels that were fastening the block to case.

Remove the remaining chunk of pinblock with large chisel and hammer, layer by layer. Do not try to take off too much wood each time, it is not only harder to do, but also causes damages to tools, piano case, or people.

The leftover veneer on stretcher can be removed mostly by chisel if old glue is not rigid and easy to peel off. If the old glue is stubborn, soak this layer of veneer with hot water and rag, chisel off when soft. Finally, as always, clean and resharpen tools.

You live in us, David, forever and ever and ever and ever...... Pictures taken 2016 at North Bennet Street School, Boston MA.

The lyre was water damaged. Rust everywhere. Felt on metal turned into rust and ate chunks off metal pieces.

Use bead blaster to remove rust. The surface on brass pedals didn't look so well after blasting (left piece in middle picture), Scotch-Brite could put some even grain on it (mid and right pieces in middle picture). Screws are grabbed onto drill press. Turn press on, press down lightly onto sand paper glued on backing boards, the screw surface will be clean with less effort, thanks to our boss. 

Spray a coat of finish on metal to prevent or slow them from rusting again.

Open up the cup on rare end of pedals with 1/2 drill bit or mill, cut and insert leather disk, then fuel hose. The fuel hose is very resilient and strong. Hopefully it'll last for a very long time. If using rubber, it may harden in several years.

Remove old raviolis from bottom board, drill for carpet tacks with a very thin bit, fasten new raviolis.

Remove old felt at the back of lyre where pedals stick out, glue on new felt.

Remove felt on pedal rod guide rail, rebush with new felt.

If replacing screws but couldn't find new screws at the same size, replace with bigger screws and tap for it. Also make sure pilot holes for bigger screws are opened up with a drill.

Reassemble parts, make sure screws are tight, pedals with no side play but rotates up and down firmly.