Bridge Notching Note

Everytime notching the bridges, new dos and don'ts are learned. I'd better write it down before the brain throws it out. Getting forgetful with age.

Always, the tools have to be very shahhhp. A dull tool can do plenty damages which may not be reversible. The sharpening stones here are of grit 1000, 2000, 5000, and 8000. The chisels are mid priced from Lee Valley. The thin Japanese cutting blade is from Woodcraft. The mallet is handmade by Branden, a highly skilled woodworker and psychologist. The sharpening and woodworking skills are learned mainly from John Cameron, a very fine cabinate maker located in Gloucester MA. The specific bridge notching skill is acquired from David Betts, my mentor for life, and Jude Reveley, my dear Boss.

There are two pencil lines on each notch. One line is leaning to the left, which marks the top of the wall of that notch. The other line is 90 degrees from the three bridge pin holes, which will be the botton of that wall. First, mark how deep the notch will be on the side of the bridge, 3mm at the treble, 5mm at base. Saw on the 90 pencil line from the left pin hole to the marked depth line. Pay attention not to saw beyond the bridge pin holes. Then, use the thin blade, cut from the left wall line, at an angle, to meet the bottom of the 90 degree saw mark. The final result can be seen on the third picture. Do it for the whole bridge.

After the side walls are cut, the surface of the notches can be chiseled. Chisel a thin layer of wood at a time until the last cut at the center of the bridge pin holes. Pay attention to the left corner of the chisel. It should not cut into the side wall. After 4-6 notches, the chisel will need to be resharpened. Don't be lazy, sharpen the chisel when she refuses to cut a smooth surface. Focus from the beginning to the end. Take many breaks and keep the body hydrated. If people walk by wanting to chat or laughing at your awkward body posture, grab some sharp wood chips and let fly to the offender's face. ​

Not only the worker and the tools, the shahhpening stones work hard, too. At the end, flatten the stone surface to get them ready for the next round, so they stay comfortable. John preferes to flatten the stones on wet sandpaper on a piece of glass. Every manufacture requires its own flattening method. Take care of your tools just like how they take care of you.